Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
